You've Got To Taste This

Versatility is the word of the day when it comes to choosing a wine for Thanksgiving. A wine needs to pair with the multitude of flavors on the table: the acidic cranberries, the herb-infused stuffing, the rich gravy, the buttery potatoes--not to mention the salty snacks upon arrival. But it also needs to please a wide variety of palates.

Riesling is one of the best white wine choices (we like Dr Loosen, Langwerth Von Simmern, and Zind-Humbrecht from Germany and Navarro Vineyards and Chateau Ste Michelle from the U.S.; Lindemans and Banrock Station from Australia are also favorites), but not everyone is a fan so be sure to have other white wine options on hand: Pinot Gris (very food friendly; try King Estate, A to Z, or Huia) and Viognier (we like Stag's Leap Winery, Peay Vineyards, and Qupé) are food-and-Aunt Sally friendly. I also like to serve bubbly - Champagne or sparkling wine. Bubbly literally pairs with any food (except dessert), so it's the ultimate holiday wine choice. French Champagne is an easy choice but try California sparkling wines (Schramsberg, Iron Horse, and Domaine Chandon are a few favorites), a Spanish Cava, or an Italian Prosecco.

If you're sticking with red, and keeping it all-American, try a Zinfandel. You can't miss with the three R's: Rosenblum, Ridge, and Ravenswood. Pinot Noir from California's Sonoma County is also a sure bet (Etude, Siduri, and La Crema are some tasty picks). A Côtes-du-Rhône would also ease the way for more turkey if you're feeling French (Guigal is a reliable producer available in most states), as would a Valpolicella Classico from Italy (Masi is one of our favorites).

Keep in mind that the heavier the wine, the more likely your guests will doze off in their chair (or on your couch). Skip the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay; you won't do the wine -- or the food -- a favor by pouring these big boys. And if you want to pour something with the dessert, make sure it's a dessert wine; the number one rule for pairing wine and desserts is that the wine must be as sweet as or sweeter than the dessert (otherwise the wine will taste thin). Port, Sauternes, Moscato d'Asti, and Vin Santo are some fabulous dessert wine choices.

Photo by Denise Daclan

Anyone who likes wine knows the name Mondavi. But fewer people know the other Mondavi – Peter Mondavi, brother of Robert Mondavi, the famed Napa Valley vintner who put California wines on the map. Their father Cesare Mondavi bought the first winery in Napa, Charles Krug, in 1943. Years later when Robert Mondavi left to start his own winery a few miles down the road, Peter remained at Charles Krug. Today Peter is still running the winery along with sons Peter Jr. and Marc. I visited with Peter Mondavi, Jr. at the winery on a beautiful September day and tasted some of their delicious wines (the 2008 Sauvignon Blanc and the 2006 Vintage Selection Cabernet Sauvignon were standouts). They’ve been busy replanting vineyards and shifting the focus to Bordeaux-style blends. The lineup of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel is made from grapes grown right on their 850 acres. The expansive tasting room is welcoming, surrounded by vineyards and the historical buildings, with knowledgeable staff who love nothing more than to talk wine. Don’t miss it on your next trip to Napa. Besides the tasting room you can order the wines online or find them in fine wine shops and select restaurants.

Peter Mondavi, Jr.’s wife Katie is an accomplished cook and parted with a true wine country recipe, Salmon and Pasta (serve with the Charles Krug-Peter Mondavi Family Napa Valley Chardonnay, of course).

Katie Mondavi’s Salmon and Pasta

Makes 4 servings

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 - 2 lemons, sliced thinly
1  bunch of green garlic or green onions, washed, trimmed and sliced into 1” lengths (or 1 small onion, sliced thinly)
1-1/2 to 2 pounds salmon filet, cut into four equal portions
1 cup Charles Krug-Peter Mondavi Family Napa Valley Chardonnay

8-10 ounces pasta of your choice

1/3 cup green or black olives, or a mixture, pitted and quartered
salt and pepper

Olive oil for drizzling

Preheat oven to 375ºF and bring a pot of salted water to boil for the pasta.

Drizzle half the olive oil into a baking dish just large enough to hold the salmon, but not too big. Set aside four lemon slices for garnish. Layer half the remaining lemon slices and half the green garlic (or onion) in the bottom of the dish.  Add the salmon atop the lemon and green garlic, then layer the remaining lemon and green garlic over the salmon. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with the remaining olive oil.  

Add chardonnay so that it comes about halfway up the salmon. Cover with foil and bake for 35-40 minutes or until the salmon is just cooked through.

About 15 minutes before the salmon is done, cook pasta al dente in boiling water. Drain and keep warm. 

Remove salmon pieces to a warm plate and quickly strain poaching liquid, reserving the green garlic or onion. Boil the liquid in a large skillet over high heat until it is reduced by half. Gently toss the liquid with the cooked pasta, olives, reserved green garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Divide onto four plates, top with salmon and serve garnished with lemon slices and a drizzle of olive oil.

Living in Manhattan I don’t have a vegetable garden per se. Ok I don’t have a vegetable garden at all though I have killed several herb plants on my windowsill.

 My mother on the other hand, living as she does in Connecticut, does have a vegetable garden. It’s large and glorious, brimming with sweet ripe vegetables, and ringed by an imposing 8-foot fence. It does look somewhat like a prison yard, but the fence keeps the deer out and me rolling in fresh veggies.

 Sometimes rolling may seem like an understatement, it can be more like drowning, not that I mind! Picking up bags FULL of vine ripened tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, zucchini, squash, and spectacularly deeply colored peppers is as exciting for me as a trip down Fifth avenue can be for those more prone to being fashionable.

Of course there is one significant difference between these vegetables and a Prada bag. The Prada bag can simply get thrown in the closet and forgotten. These bags need to be cleaned, processed and creatively dealt with, lest I face a week, or more, of Greek salad for dinner.

 Ratatouille seems to be the ideal solution, ok I cheated, the cucumbers are being pickled. A dish inspired no doubt by days like this in the French Country side. One that thrives on abundance, and is oh so forgiving of a little less here or a little more there. It’s one of my favorite dishes. Whether on it’s own, warm or cold, paired with a lamb chop or served with rice or pasta, I love it’s flexibility and the fact that it’s flavor can improve for a day or three so I never grow tired of it.

 I’ve included my standard recipe for Ratatouille here. You might find that you have a touch more onion or a touch less eggplant, or visa versa, than the recipe calls for. Don’t be too concerned about precise quantities here, just focus on the techniques and when you’re done make sure you take the time to enjoy your handiwork.

 

 I recently did just that. I spent some time in my mother’s kitchen last weekend salvaging vegetables from the garden on a rainy Saturday and made a huge batch of ratatouille for all of us to share. On Sunday the weather cleared up and share it we did, served over fettuccine with a sprinkle of Parmiggiano and  the aforementioned grilled lamb chops. It was spectacular and the wine pairing, a 2007 Delas Cotes du Rhone that I stocked up on for events like this, was a perfect partner!

 

While I  recommend serving a Cote du Rhone with Ratatouille, or at least trying one, don’t fret if that’s not a wine you’re interested in. A nice Chianti or Rioja would be a great match too!

I have always been an enthusiastic fan of the Monsanto Chianti's and I heartily recommend their Riserva. They're fairly priced and have an earthy complexity that is ideally  suited to compliment the complexity and layers of flavors one finds in ratatouille.

As I mentioned, a nice Rioja is also a great choice. There are various levels of aging that are mandated for Rioja, and each wine has information on the label that can help you identify one you might enjoy. 

With this dish I would look for a wine labeled as Joven or Tinto, the two youngest styles of Rioja. As you progress to Reservas and Gran Reservas you'll find wines more influenced by oak aging, featuring notes of vanilla, baking spices and even coconut.

A nice Joven or Tinto will be all about the lovely raspberry fruit that Tempranillo, the main grape of the Rioja blend, is famous for. One that I've found, and that is actually 100% Tempranillo, is the Cortijo III. It's packed with berry fruit and has a nice spicy edge and hints of licorice that offer a nice contrast to the sweet, earthy flavors of the Ratatouille.

No matter which wine you choose, just remember to make sure you're happy with the combination. Wine and food pairing is simple when that's your goal!

Gregory Dal Piaz

Community Manager

Snooth

 

 

 

I'm always on the lookout for something new -- a new ingredient, new flavor combination, or a new wine. While I love Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, among others, I was desperate for a new white wine for the summer season. A sommelier friend suggested I try three "new" varietals, and I haven't looked back. All three have become some of my favorite wines to taste and talk about.

The first is Arneis, from Italy's Piedmont region. This medium-bodied, aromatic white tastes of apples, pears, and apricots and is sublime with cold chicken salad or smoked trout. Verdicchio is the second discovery, another native varietal from Italy. It's made in the Marches region and has a nutty, almost peachy flavor. What makes it even better is how well is pairs with any seafood - shrimp, scallops, crab, fish; they all sing with a glass of Verdicchio. Last but certainly not least is Torrontes, a grape native to Argentina. (Wine geeks often refer to it as Argentina's Viognier.) This lively, aromatic wine has hints of green apple, orange blossoms, and tropical fruits. It's food-friendly and has become my go-to white when I serve a cheese platter or grilled shrimp. Arneis, Verdicchio, and Torrontes can be found from $8 to $30 a bottle in wine shops so uncork a bottle (or three) and embrace something new!

I’ll admit it: I love pink wine. The first time my dad, a wine snob, heard this news he rolled his eyes. But what my old-school father didn’t realize was that rosé is one of the most food-friendly wines out there. Not quite a red, not quite a white, it has an undeserved negative reputation in the wine world.

With a little convincing you will fall in love. Rosé, French for "pink" or "rose-colored," is almost always made from red grapes. Almost any red grape can be used but you’ll usually see Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre, and Pinot Noir. What makes it different from other wine is the winemaking process: the skins are removed from the grapes within two to three days, which gives the wine its light pink color. (But it's also why rosés lack the body of most red wines; the tannins are in the skins.)

Rosés are dry—yes, dry—with fresh strawberry and raspberry flavors. The French regions of Tavel (Rhône Valley) and Anjou (Loire Valley), and Provence are known for their rosé, but California, Spain, Italy, Australia, and South Africa are in the game, too. They're meant to be drunk pronto, so don't stash them in your cellar for more than a couple of months.

One final tip before you head to the wine store: these days the term "vin gris" is used almost interchangeably with rosé, although historically there is a difference. But beware: rosé and vin gris are not the same as blush wine, which usually refers to the super-sweet American White Zinfandels that are made using a different method.

Rosé is the best pick for summer - it's easy, it's breezy, and the best pick those evenings when it’s just too hot for red wine. The only rule to remember is to serve them slightly chilled. It’s also the lazy man’s wine pairing friend: French, Mexican, Thai, Indian, Chinese take-out: virtually every dish (save chocolate cake) pairs perfectly with a bottle of rosé. And what makes me love them even more is the recession-friendly price tag – you can find a delicious bottle starting around $8. Buy a few from different regions and see what you like – and sip the summer away. I’m happy to say that my dad is almost converted, but I don’t care; it just means more wine for me.

I was browsing through my inbox today and a delightful newsletter popped up from Williams-Sonoma, and I wanted to share a little blurb about my findings.  Like most, I usually just glance through these emails and exit out, but this particular one caught my attention primarily because the theme was grilling and I’m a fanatic.

Williams-Sonoma hosts a wine club and this summer they are featuring a Grilling Wines package. An excellent way start to your grilling season. For around $60 you can give or receive a wonderful assortment of red wines from various locations, tasting notes, and paired grilling recipes for each. My father’s birthday is coming up next month and this just might be the perfect gift. Cheers!

Don't miss our  Summer Grilling Guide

As winter sneaks up on us and the temperature drops down to a bone-chilling low I have been determined to start a cozy bonfire. There’s just something about this time of year that makes me want to sit around a toasty fire with friends, a warm blanket, and a stick skewered with plump marshmallows. I love the sweet rustic smell of burning wood and toasted marshmallows that seeps into my hair and clothing.

I’ve been an avid devotee of the classic s’more for the first half of my life. Two perfectly roasted marshmallows placed on a small slab of Hershey’s milk chocolate and wedged between two crisp graham crackers. It doesn’t get any better than that. Or does it?

Sunday afternoon I ventured out of my comfort zone and conducted a s’more research project. On my visit to the grocery store my taste buds took a creative approach to picking out different s’more goodies for the bonfire. I admit that I went a little over board.

Lindt Milk Chocolate and Double Milk Chocolate Bars
Ghirardelli Peppermint Bark and Almond bars (I think you could really do some damage with the chocolate squares)
Marshmallows
Peanut Butter
Graham Crackers
Bananas
Anna’s Chocolate Mint Thins and Ginger Thins

I have no self-control when it comes to sweets and having a “sweet tooth” is an under statement. I have a whole mouth full of them. We mixed and matched at least seven different sweet sandwiches. A toasted marshmallow with the chocolate almond bar smashed between two ginger thins. Another marshmallow was paired with peppermint bark and packed between chocolate mint thins. Yum! The possibilities were endless. Peanut butter with roasted banana, a marshmallow, and double milk chocolate sandwiched with graham crackers. Mmmm!

The day ended with sugar rushes and bellyaches, but it was worth it. So before it gets too cold get outside, start a fire (safely), and treat yourself to a s’more.

Can you think of any creative s'more combinations? What are some of your favorites?

When a friend invited me to dinner last night, I immediately accepted and asked what I could contribute.  “Wine” was the request, so I asked about the menu and was told “Roasted Halibut.”  I immediately set out to do some research and discovered an ideal pairing. 

An Oregon Pinot Noir is a delicate red with fruit that won’t overpower the fish, but enough acid to stand up to the roasting method.  I don’t usually pick lighter bodied reds, but I am trying to expand my palate.  We were both pleased with the pairing results. 

To try your own hand at pairing, you've got to taste these roasted halibut recipes from MyRecipes.com:

Roasted Halibut with Romesco Sauce and Olive Relish – Cooking Light

Halibut Roasted on a Bed of Salt – Sunset

Oven-Roasted Halibut with Cranberry Chutney – Coastal Living

Who’s cooking fish across the web:

Ling Cod with Tomato andOrange– Simply Recipes

Baked Cod with Roasted Sweet and Sour Vegetables – Karina’s Kitchen

Poached Halibut with Sweet Garlic, Parsley and Lemon - Orangette

Fans of fruit-flavored beers like Sweetwater Blue and Purple Haze will want to check out a newly launched lager from Anheuser-Busch called “Wild Blue.”  Though meant to be slowly sipped and savored, not chugged, Wild Blue is a great beer to pair with any food prepared with fruit and berries.  I sampled it alongside a Spinach Salad with Vinaigrette and Dried Cranberries (try this recipe for something similar) and loved the way the beer’s strong blueberry flavors complemented the salad’s tart cranberries. I think it would also make a delicious summertime dessert beer when paired with vanilla ice cream. At 8% alcohol by volume, some states don’t sell Wild Blue, but there were plenty of girls at our tasting planning to hop over the state line to stock up!